S.S. State of California —
The S.S. State of California is located
within secluded Gambier Bay off Stephens Passage in Southeast
Alaska. This old steamship is 300 feet in length, providing refuge for
cloud sponges, anemones, decorated rockfish, decorated warbonnets
and prowfish. Prowfish, which have traditionally been assumed to live
only in the deep, are found here at just 60 feet. The top of the bow
rests at 65 feet, and there is a lot of wreckage to be seen; the toilets
and wooden deck are still intact after a century in saline waters.
S.S. Princess Kathleen —
This 370-foot passenger and freight
steamship sank on Sept. 7, 1952, after running aground off Lena
Point in Alaska’s Lynn Canal. It lies in about 50 to 100 feet of
water, quite accessible to divers, especially given the ship’s many
penetration points. The propellers sit at 130 feet, and the hull is intact and in remarkable condition.
In 2010 a salvage group removed 150,000 gallons of oil from the ship to prevent a massive disaster.
S.S. Princess Sophia —
The remains of the S.S. Princess Sophia reside on Vanderbilt Reef, where
it ran aground in 1918. This wreck measures 245 feet in length and is one of the worst nautical
disasters of the century with a death toll of 343 and not a single survivor. Now totally covered with
giant plumose anemones, decorated warbonnets inhabit the girders, and prowfish are located amid
the rubble of twin engines and winches. This wreck has significant historic value to the local area
and abundant marine life.
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we found the surge and impending weather too heavy to dive Wooden Island that day. Instead we
visited a nice little cove nearby, better protected from the sea but not as macro-rich. Had the trip
been all about diving it might have been a bummer, but to us it was just a speed bump along the
way to more topside photo opportunities, including the calving ice and bergy bits at the Tracy Arm
glacier, the quaint village at Elfin Cove and the hotsprings and waterfall that are the highlights of a
visit to Baranof Island.
No need to choose
Though I spend most of my time in tropical waters, I won’t resist the siren song of Alaskan
waters for long. I found that underwater world to be endlessly fascinating, rivaled only by
the sights to behold above water. Though admittedly I was initially skittish upon my return
to cold-water diving, by the end of the trip I was eager for every dive. With a little more
experience came confidence and respect for those who dive cold waters often and well.
I understand why so many divers are so passionate about the sport in California, the Pacific
Northwest and New England.
But when I consider my next expedition to Alaska, the conundrum remains: topside or
underwater? It’s really not a tough decision; it has to be both. The underwater wonders of Alaska
are incredibly compelling, but the terrestrial aspects can’t be denied or ignored. I’ve already
booked my next trip, and for sure my topside telephotos and underwater macro lenses will come
along to capture the unparalleled diversity and beauty.
AD
T e x t b y U d i B o r n o v s k i
A l a s k a
The Iconic Wrecks of Southeast
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