T e x T a n d P h o T o s b y W a l T s T e a r n s
            
            
              
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              sUMMer 2012
            
            
              LOCAL DIVING
            
            
              I
            
            
              t’s a hot, sunny day in late August. The seas are almost
            
            
              flat, and they’re tinted an inviting shade of blue. Three
            
            
              miles off the coast of Jupiter, Fla., the Republic IV swings
            
            
              its bow to the south, moving up current of our intended
            
            
              dive site: a grouping of a freighter (
            
            
              
                Zion Train),
              
            
            
              a tanker
            
            
              
                (Esso
              
            
            
              
                Bonaire III
              
            
            
              ) and a barge (
            
            
              
                Miss Jenny
              
            
            
              ) known collectively as the
            
            
              
                Jupiter Wreck Trek
              
            
            
              . The captain puts the boat in neutral and
            
            
              gives the call we’ve all been waiting for: “Dive! Dive! Dive!” Like
            
            
              skydivers exiting a plane over a drop zone, we hit the water with
            
            
              a splash and begin our drop to the bottom, 90 feet below. On
            
            
              the way down we pass through a large school of spadefish fol-
            
            
              lowed by an equally large school of jack crevalle.
            
            
              Although our descent to the bottom is quick, the current
            
            
              pushes us to Zion Train’s detached stern. Ninety-foot vis-
            
            
              ibility allows us to catch an early glimpse of what awaits us
            
            
              on the wreck. As we approach, an indistinct mass of slow-
            
            
              moving shadows morphs into a collection of huge fish.
            
            
              
                Super GrouperS
              
            
            
              Seeing a spawning aggregation of goliath grouper (Epinephelus
            
            
              itajara) for the first time is a jaw-dropping experience. The
            
            
              breeding season for these colossal fish, many weighing 350
            
            
              to 450 pounds, commences in early August and lasts into
            
            
              October. A quick count places the number of fish at about 75,
            
            
              which means this aggregation is close to its peak. Despite their
            
            
              formidable size and number, the goliaths yield easily to our
            
            
              advances; some back down into the wreck, while others edge
            
            
              off to the side to allow us to pass. Here and there an individual
            
            
              will posture, holding its ground while emitting a series of loud
            
            
              booms, before eventually yielding like the rest.
            
            
              A similar gathering of 40 or 50 of these behemoths is
            
            
              currently under way nearby on the
            
            
              
                MG-111
              
            
            
              , a busted-up
            
            
              barge in 65 feet of water one mile inshore of our current
            
            
              location. Further offshore at a site called
            
            
              
                Hole in the Wall,
              
            
            
              named for a
            
            
              giant swim-through in the side of a deep ledge,
            
            
              another 30 or 40 goliaths are gathered. Well to the south, off
            
            
              Boynton Beach at a depth of 110 feet, the 258-foot freighter
            
            
              
                M/V Castor
              
            
            
              holds a resident population of 12 goliaths
            
            
              and attracts a few dozen more during spawning season.
            
            
              Just north of Lake Worth Inlet is another group of wrecks
            
            
              (
            
            
              
                Mizpah, PC-1170
              
            
            
              and
            
            
              
                Amaryllis
              
            
            
              ) that attracts similar
            
            
              numbers of the grouper.
            
            
              If not for a federal moratorium enacted in 1990 to protect
            
            
              this one species of fish, the opportunity to witness these aggre-
            
            
              gations would not exist. Florida is now the only place on the
            
            
              planet where large-scale goliath spawns occur. In terms of
            
            
              
                Big Things cruise off
              
            
            
              
                florida’s Palm Beaches