James C. King
, a barge sunk while under tow in November
1901. The bow rests in about 90 feet of water, and carved
Roman numerals, the King’s draft marks, can be seen along
the hull. Slowly returning up the decking of this ship to the
crushed stern at 25 feet, it’s as if I’m following an underwater
boardwalk that leads me to the surface. Off to the side of the
main wreckage is a wooden rudder, and a bit further beyond it
is more of the broken boat, its boards fashioned together with
steel pegs.
In my time underwater off Tobermory’s coast, I realized I did
not have to share the wrecks with zebra mussels, an invasive
species that has all but infested the Great Lakes. Although
clumps were present, for the most part the ship’s details were
easily seen. Those draft marks on the King would have been
impossible to discern if the zebra mussels had taken over.
Tobermory also has some geological sites that offer
alternatives to shipwreck dives.
Dunk’s Point
,
North
Otter Wall
and
The Caves
(also known as The Grotto) are
among the more unusual spots. At The Caves I followed
clean, white rocks and boulders along the shoreline to an
underwater swim-through, which opened up into a sheltered
grotto. Be careful when ascending from the dark water here;
you’ll likely encounter swimmers, some of whom may be
ready to cool off with a jump down into the chilly water.
No trip to Tobermory would be complete without a visit
outside the marine park to the
Niagara II
. Intentionally
sunk in 1999 in 100 feet of water by the Tobermory
Maritime Association, this sandsucker helps ease some of
the pressure on the area’s older wrecks by giving divers a
place to play. The locals certainly have made it interesting;
in addition to the easily penetrable hull and intact railings, a
few features have been added just for fun, including a piano
(which was pretty smashed up when I saw it) and a Canadian
flag that “flies” from the stern. My favorite part of this 182-
foot ship is its pristine wheelhouse, mostly because of the
story that accompanies it. Graham, president of the maritime
association that made the wreck possible, noticed that there
wasn’t a wheel in the ship, so he built one. “A ship without a
wheel is like a person without a soul,” he said. “How do you
connect with a ship if it doesn’t have a wheel?”
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