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that manta numbers are disappointing, don’t despair: The
channels are not all rubble and sand. They also contain lovely
hard-coral outcroppings swarmed by anthias and glassfish,
and inspection of the walls may reveal hunting octopuses, leaf
scorpionfish and branches of purple soft coral. While these
channels are the sites most often visited for manta viewing,
the large indigenous population of the creatures means they
are a common spectacle at any of Yap’s dive sites.
More Than Mantas
The manta encounters are Yap’s most publicized underwater
feature, a fact that has been both a blessing and a curse. Many
divers visit, but once they have seen the rays, they believe
they have seen all the destination has to offer. As a result, Yap
welcomes a constant flow of visitors “stopping over” for a few
days en route to other Pacific destinations. The injustice of
this practice becomes glaringly clear to those who settle in for
a longer stay.
One group of less-promoted residents has distracted us
from mantas repeatedly: sharks. Vertigo is an exceptional
shark dive that eclipses the individual encounters commonly
experienced at other sites. The site consists of a pretty
hard-coral wall laden with crinoids and small sponges,
but the introduction of a simple PVC tube filled with bait
amplifies the thrill value significantly. Minutes after the bait
is submerged, the site swarms with dozens of bold gray reef
sharks and an occasional blacktip thrown in for variety. This
is already the most adrenaline-charged dive in Yap, and if
current efforts to ban shark fishing throughout Micronesia
succeed, it will only intensify.
After giant manta rays and a writhing mass of reef sharks,
what more could two photographers ask for? Certainly, we’d be
perfectly satisfied to alternate mantas and sharks, day in and day
out for weeks on end. However, with local diving pioneer Bill
Acker himself repeatedly extolling the loveliness of Yap’s other
dive sites, we finally decided to forego the big-animal experiences
for a day. A single day blurred into many as we became
acquainted with Yap’s lovely and diverse reefs. One standout
was Cabbage Patch, a series of undulating, steeply sloping walls
richly encrusted with delicate lettuce coral. The reef is inhabited
by anemones, crinoids and tube worms, and large turtles are
often found feeding along the top of the reef in this area.
Our hands-down favorite reef is Yap Caverns. Located at the
extreme southwestern tip of Yap Island, this site is composed
of a series of hard-coral pinnacles that enclose a maze of
caverns and swim-throughs. Within the main cavern, a school
of resident glassfish sweeps back and forth while stingrays and
white-tip reef sharks tuck into the corners to nap. Peering back
toward the cavern entrance may yield the most incredible vista
of all: We’ve seen whale sharks, mantas and eagle rays pass by
the pinnacles. In fact, we’ve heard that just about anything can
be seen at this part of the island, including pilot whales and the
occasional pod of dolphins. Divers who prefer looking for small
creatures will also enjoy this site; we have photographed leaf
scorpionfish, nudibranchs, shrimp and crabs hidden among the
reef’s gorgonians and whip corals.
The Secret is Out
Given Yap’s renowned manta population, there are not many
divers who travel here dreaming of nudibranchs. However,
gusty afternoon winds make manta, shark and outer-reef
dives uncommon post-lunch events, so keen divers are
often taken to the protected inner reefs. One good option is
Slow ’n Easy, a gentle sand slope punctuated by hard-coral
bommies. Sandy areas hold an abundance of pipefish, garden
eels and symbiotic shrimp/goby pairs, as well as occasional
mantis shrimp and stonefish. Inspection of the reef structure
reveals nudibranchs, blennies, leaf scorpionfish and whip
coral shrimp. Shore dives also yield unexpected finds: The
murky waters near the resort docks are great places to look for
nudibranchs and small jellyfish.
As sunset approaches, we always find ourselves eager
to dive again. That’s because Yap offers one of the best
mandarinfish dives we’ve experienced anywhere. Rainbow
Reef , a large clump of mucky staghorn coral surrounded by a
sand patch, is located mere minutes from resort docks. Divers
gather here at dusk to view the colorful fish courting and (we
hope) pairing off to rise gracefully into the water column in a
fascinating, photogenic mating ritual. Even if the mandarinfish
are not feeling amorous, this site harbors other interesting
creatures, such as cuttlefish, pipefish, eels and scorpionfish.
As our most recent visit drew to an end, we sat at the
end of the dock comparing mandarinfish images while the
moon rose over the mangroves. Another couple passed by
us, discussing strategies to extend their stay, and we looked
at one another knowingly. Destinations everywhere become
notorious for a single exceptional feature and are promptly
pigeonholed accordingly, and in Yap’s case, the manta rays are
that exceptional attribute. However, after several visits to this
Micronesian paradise, we have learned firsthand that these
giant rays are only a small part of what Yap has to offer. AD
Large numbers of grey reef sharks make Vertigo one of the best shark dives
in the Pacific.
Opposite: Yap’s gorgeous reefs, such as lettuce-coral-encrusted Cabbage
Patch, offer a beautiful diversion from manta rays.