shafts of light that percolated through the swim-throughs,
but to me the vast fields of hard coral were even more
stunning. Perfectly intact staghorn corals cascaded down
the reef slope; in the shallows (15 feet and shallower)
boulder corals competed with weird and wonderful antler
corals to perch on any available substrate. Wash a scene
like that in 150-foot visibility, and it makes for a particularly
inspirational dive.
Marovo Lagoon was the westernmost point of our cruise.
The return trip to Honiara provided some additional dive
opportunities in the Russell and, eventually, Florida islands.
In the Floridas we dived the Mavis floatplane as well as some
other less distinct artifacts around
GavutuWharf
, an area of
very active conflict during WWII. There were several dives of
note there, including the following:
Twin Tunnels
features two wide tunnels that plunge
through the pinnacle to exit at 120 feet, while the reef
above is rich with hard corals and active cleaning stations.
Velvia
, which is named for the slide film of preference
back in the day. Maybe today the site should renamed
“Vibrance” in honor of the slider control in Lightroom
software, and in recognition of how few photographers
today have recollections that reach back to the yesteryear
of film. Whatever the name, the allure of a reef rich with
wide-angle opportunity remains strong.
Mbike Wreck
was intentionally and conveniently sunk
just off the dock at a small island resort and is a wonder
of invertebrate life. Vibrant green and orange Nembrotha
kubaryana (variable neon slugs) are absolutely everywhere
on this wreck. I was conflicted about whether to dive it with
a 100mm macro lens or a wide-angle — we could tell by
looking over the side that the water was very clear that day.
The macro won out though, and I was rewarded with not
only nudibranchs and butterflyfish but also flounder and
other sand-dwellers in the shallows at the end of the dive.
POPCORN PASSAGE
While the last day of any liveaboard trip is typically devoted
to repacking cameras and drying dive gear, the Bilikiki had
one more surprise for us as we cruised home at sunset
through the mangrove channels of the Florida Islands.
Dozens of canoes with teenagers and children began
appearing along the starboard side of the boat, matching
our suddenly decreased speed. Our cruise directors brought
up prepackaged bags of popcorn, and it was our job to
toss them to the kids. Their enthusiasm ignited our joy,
reminding us of how blessed we had been those past 10 days
to share a bit of their world.
AD
72
|
WINTER 2014
H o w t o
D i v e I t
GETTING THERE:
Most travelers from North America
fly from Los Angeles through Brisbane, Australia, or Fiji.
Solomon Airlines is the international carrier connecting
Honiara, the capital city of the Solomon Islands, to Fiji
and Australia. In addition, Fiji Airways provides weekly
service to and from Fiji, and Air Niugini provides service
to Papua New Guinea. Virgin Airlines also has twice-
weekly flights between Brisbane and Honiara.
If you plan to spend any time in Australia in
the course of your travel (outside the international
terminal), you must have a valid passport and a visa.
Many airlines are willing to apply for an electronic
travel authority (ETA) on your behalf when you book
travel. You should confirm this, or just do it yourself at
TRAVEL DOCUMENTS:
American citizens do not need
a visa to enter the Solomon Islands. Visitors must have
a passport, an onward or return ticket and proof of
sufficient funds. You may be denied boarding at check-
in or turned around upon arrival in Honiara if your
documents are not in order. Visitor permits are granted
upon arrival at Honiara International Airport.
BAGGAGE:
Solomon Airlines has onerous baggage
restrictions, but you may request in advance a
“sporting and diving allowance” to increase your
allotment to 66 pounds. You can have two bags,
but they should not weigh more than 66 pounds
in all. The more difficult restriction for me was the
15-pound carry-on limit. There is an agent with a
digital scale on the concourse that you won’t be able
to avoid; noncompliance will get you sent back to the
ticket counter.
TRAVEL MEDICINE:
Antimalarial medication is
recommended, and visitors should also ensure their
vaccinations are up to date. Travelers to the Solomon
Islands should consult their doctor or local clinic about
immunizations or oral preventatives for hepatitis A,
malaria and typhoid as well as ensuring their routine
vaccinations (against polio, tetanus, etc.) are up to date.
Malarone is a widely used antimalarial medication and
has very few side effects. Be sure to check with your
doctor for his or her recommendations. Many dive
operators in this part of the world ask you to avoid
Mefloquine (brand name Lariam); its side effects may
be significant and can be similar to some symptoms of
decompression sickness.
