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WINTER 2014
A Splendid Start
Mark greets us warmly as we disembark the ferry
in San Miguel. “How was the flight into Cancun?
How was the ferry crossing? Are you ready to dive?”
Hustling us down the pier, he rambles on. “I have a
date lined up for y’all. I just splashed with my favorite
guide, Alex, and we found a beauty. She’s most
splendid. We’ll hit the water as soon as you’re ready.”
We make an executive decision to postpone the
welcome margaritas until the evening. It does not do to
keep a splendid toadfish waiting. In less than an hour
we’re onboard a six-pack dive boat destined for paradise.
Paradise Reef
is a popular, mellow site in front of the
harbor. It’s a good intro dive (and great night dive) with a
nice sampling of marine life. It’s not the flashiest of sites
— we’re warned that much better coral and color will
come tomorrow — but that’s fine by me. I’d like nothing
more than to start things off with a reclusive celebrity.
Sanopus splendidus is a zebra-striped pitbull of a fish
with canary-yellow fins and a chin sporting a spiky beard.
Endemic to Cozumel, this toadfish is found nowhere else.
We find our prize at 40 feet, wedged under a low ridge
and grumpily peering out from the shadows, its pouty lips
agape as a cleaner shrimp marches across its head. It’s a
fish geek’s dream, and I happily pass the next 30 minutes
in photographic bliss.
8
SPRING
A hawksbill sea turtle takes flight at Palancar Bricks.
Opposite, from left: Rainbow-hued souvenirs in
San Miguel; a woman diving from a family-run
six-pack boat; a sombrero-wearing
horse-drawn taxi, Cozumel-style
