shore are very complex structures — extraordinary
three-dimensional seascapes that feature everything
from coralline towers bisected by sand chutes to
walls riddled with caves to mazes of pinnacles and
mounds. There are coral terraces, canyons, spurs,
fissures, amphitheaters, tunnels … you name it. It’s a
topographical free-for-all, the intricate and imaginative
work of time and tide. The end result is a veritable
undersea metropolis in which every nook and cranny
is home to one form of life or another and each
pathway leads you to new discoveries.
Punta Sur
is famous for two deeper attractions,
the vaulted “Cathedral” chamber at around 100 feet
and the “Devil’s Throat” vertical passageway from
90 to 130 feet.
Santa Rosa
features a bewildering
network of swim-throughs as well as sand alleyways
between soaring coral columns. Its fascinating Swiss-
cheese reef system lured us back for a second dive.
Critter watching was also productive here, with
sightings of a bright yellow coney, two queens (angel
and triggerfish), parrotfish and another toadfish. At
Palancar Bricks
one is likely to encounter hawksbill
sea turtles. We saw three between 50 and 80 feet,
including one napping on the bottom and one
snacking on a barrel sponge growing on a miniwall.
Paso de Cedral
boasts schools of porkfish and
grunts nestled up against knobby reef protrusions
draped in invertebrates as well as groupers, eels,
lobsters, gray angelfish pairs, southern stingrays and
nurse sharks. It’s a top choice for fish photography
with a macro or wide-angle zoom lens, but be
prepared for brisk current. After 60 solid minutes
exploring Cedral, we inflated our surface marker buoys
and kicked back to a relaxed safety stop and photo-
chimping session, smiling at each other and reliving
the dive while the boat matched our pace overhead.
Warm Currents
Underwater and above, it’s hard not to smile in
Cozumel. Whereas we’ve occasionally been met with
brusqueness and boredom by tourist-weary locals in
other parts of the world, the Cozumelino welcome
given us in San Miguel felt entirely genuine. “Casual,
comfortable, and auténtico,” Mark quips, leading us
down streets lined with colorful shops and inviting
restaurants. We enter a courtyard full of happy people,
visitors as well as natives, mingling under blooming
flamboyant trees while a mariachi band entertains in
the golden afternoon light. “¡Hola!” someone calls out
to us. “How was the diving today?”
Mark beams, “See? This is a diver’s town, no doubt
about it. The community wants our business, and
the people are kind enough to share their culture —
yet another reason why Coz grows on you, quickly
becomes an old friend. You’ll be back before you
know it!” Indeed, we’ve only been here a few days,
and we’ve already fallen under its charm. Our Texan
tour guide continues, “Hey, are you ready for dinner?
The real deal? I’ve got the perfect place. Wait ‘til you
taste the food! I’ll introduce you to some of my dearest
Cozumeleño friends. We’ll eat, drink and be merry.
And we’ll plan tomorrow’s dives!”
Smiling, we glide along behind him, going with the
flow, carried on Cozumel’s warm currents. Coolness all
around.
AD
HOW TO DIVE IT
CONDITIONS: Cozumel is a year-round diving destination.
Water temperatures range from 75°F to 85°F seasonally.
Topside temps average 80°F year round. May to October
is the rainy season, which often means afternoon showers.
Water visibility is generally excellent, ranging from 75 to 125
feet at most dive sites. Current is almost always present,
but varies between gentle to strong. Live-boat diving is the
norm. Carry a surface marker buoy, and follow your guide.
Dive sites to the far north, far south and the few frontier sites
on the island’s rarely visited windward (eastern) side often
feature rough seas and challenging conditions.
GETTING THERE: Select U.S. carriers fly directly into Cozumel
(CZM). Many airlines serve Cancun (CUN). If arriving at CUN,
you’ll need ground transport to the ferry terminal and pas-
sage across to Cozumel via ferry.
MORE INFO:
; visitmexico.com/en/cozumel
OTHER ADVENTURES: Explore the Maya ruins at Tulum,
Chichen Itza, Uxmal or Coba. At Isla Mujeres, snorkel with
whale sharks in the summer or sailfish in the winter.
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Opposite, clockwise from top left: Big, bold cuda cuts
through the frame; splendid toadfish, a one-of-a-kind find
at Paradise; French and white grunts on display for
current-riding divers; a photo-savvy queen angelfish
looks her best in front of an elephant ear sponge.
Below: A diver glides on the sea wind.
