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71

the frequency of success others have enjoyed

at this site, lovely reef tropicals were all that

populated my image download. It was the same

story on our second dive at

Moofushi Rock

:

The visibility was marginal, and the manta

action was sparse.

That changed the next day at South Ari

Atoll on

Rangali Madivaru

(“madivaru”

means “ray” in the local language, appropriately

enough). We swam along a shallow sloping

reef that featured incredible manta activity —

in terms of both the number encountered and

the ease of proximity. Everyone in the water

had wonderful close encounters with the rays

and captured images with two or three in the

frame. As if to underscore how special this dive

was, our second dive on the site three hours

later featured a few encounters but nothing

at all like the rich rewards of the morning.

Whether the tide or the current or karma was

the differentiator, the lightning in the bottle on

that morning dive had escaped by noon.

Maldives reprised was a great success. We

hit our marks. We found the iconic mantas in

the south and enjoyed our time in the north as

the only liveaboard on the horizon. We didn’t

get a whale shark encounter, but on balance

that was fine with us. I doubt the whale sharks

missed us very much either.

AD

Clockwise from

above:

Batfish

are resident at

Danbu Thila. At

some point in

the cruise most

liveaboards put on

a beach barbecue,

complete with

sand sculptures.

The gray reef

sharks at Fish

Head benefit from

the location’s

protected status.

Giant squirrelfish

swim at

Himendhoo Rock.

Emperor angelfish

traverse the reef at

Horubadhoo Thila.