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We spent the afternoon sailing back to Cebu, enjoying the sunset and admiring our fellow passengers’ photographs. We couldn’t help being just the slightest bit smug. We thought we were taking a bit of a chance going there, but we discovered that the Visayas may be one of the best-kept secrets of Southeast Asia.

erde Island Passage: Anilao and Puerto Galera

David Behrens, one of the best known nudibranch researchers in the world, in his recently published Indo-Pacific Nudibranchs and Sea Slugs, identified the Verde Island Passage as the “center of the center of marine diversity … the apex of the Coral Triangle,” a glowing review by any diver’s standards.

Nearly a decade before this field guide was published, we heard rumors about the

incredible density of marine life that could be found in those waters. Over the past couple of years, however, the rumors turned into incessant eyewitness reports from people we knew and trusted. Amazing images emerged of the undescribed nudibranchs they had discovered, a shrimp they had waited their whole life to see, rhinopias at every dive site and more. At first we were just plain jealous. Over time, however, our jealousy matured into pity — poor Anilao and unfortunate Puerto Galera, to be typecast in such an unjust manner, known solely for phenomenal diversity of tiny critters. We resolved that when we visited this region, we would challenge the macro-only stereotype (or at least give it a solid attempt). So upon our arrival in Anilao , we dared our divemaster to show us the best wide-angle vistas the area had to offer. He gave us a big smile and a nod, and we got the distinct feeling that

we were in for a surprise. That’s how we ended up spending our first dive in Anilao mesmerized by dense swarms of anthias at Beatrice Rock, a dive site populated by scorpionfish and giant frogfish living among barrel and vase sponges, crinoids and multicolored tubastrea, often open due to the ripping current. Modeling for each other here was truly a challenge; it put our fly-by posing skills to the test. Subsequent dives at other sites further convinced us that Anilao was home to fabulous, unsung wide-angle vistas at Ligpo Island and Twin Rocks.

Any who come to this area searching for critters are going to be blown away. Anilao’s Secret Bay , a classic muck site complete with volcanic sand bottom, is famous for its macro offerings. A series of dives here revealed nudibranchs, frogfish, ghostpipefish, a wonderpus, a mimic octopus and a wide variety of crabs

and shrimp. Off nearby Maricaban Island, the dive site called Bethlehem is renowned for rare and beautiful nudibranchs and is the site of discovery for several new species. However, any site in Anilao seems to yield amazing life, including many jawfish (often with eggs) and fire urchins populated with Coleman shrimp.

Don’t expect huge hotels or a bustling nightlife in Anilao. It’s made up of a series of small dive resorts, often family owned and visited mainly by divers from nearby Manila. However, if your idea of dive-vacation heaven is diving (interrupted only by eating and sleeping, with the latter being optional in lieu of more diving), then this is where you belong. On the other side of the Verde Island Passage lies

Puerto Galera , arguably more well-known and popular among visitors from the United States and

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