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71
The Pelagic Crossroads
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OUR TIMING WAS PERFECT.
We held tightly to the rocks, trying to keep
a low profile in the current washing over
the seamount. A large school of scalloped
hammerheads swam overhead, graceful against
a backdrop of misty blue water. As if confirming
the “religious experience” status of the dive,
dozens of individual sharks dropped down to
our level, giving us a close-up look at one of
the most alien-appearing animals in the ocean.
Glancing backward over my shoulder, I noticed
an unexpected visitor: an approaching whale
shark, only 15 feet away.
I released my grasp on the rocks and
drifted down current toward the newcomer,
anticipating his immediate departure. Instead,
he circled me curiously, playfully, almost
puppylike. I shouted toward the other divers,
who continued to stare obliviously at the
hammerheads. Minutes ticked by as I alternated
screaming to the unaware divers below and
giggling delightedly to myself as I acquired as
many whale shark photos as would fit on my
camera’s memory card. My solo interaction
with this young giant continued unnoticed until
the divemaster signaled the group to begin
their ascent. At this point, the whale shark was
promptly pursued by a horde of scary-looking
bubble-blowers, and he fled the scene.
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