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              WINTER 2012
            
            
              
                m
              
            
            
              y interaction resulted in
            
            
              a decidedly cool postdive
            
            
              reception. As I climbed
            
            
              into the skiff, my dive buddies greeted
            
            
              me with groans and boos, and someone
            
            
              pelted me with a wet towel. Despite
            
            
              the tough crowd, I was unable to wipe
            
            
              the enthusiastic grin off my face until I
            
            
              heard a hushed threat about my camera
            
            
              being thrown overboard. Although
            
            
              I had scored some amazing shots,
            
            
              perhaps my trip hadn’t gotten off to the
            
            
              greatest start popularitywise.
            
            
              My fellow passengers didn’t stay
            
            
              angry with me for long, however. By
            
            
              the end of the week nearly everyone
            
            
              had been treated to a whale shark
            
            
              interaction. Anywhere else in the
            
            
              world, this might seem unbelievable,
            
            
              but in Cocos, pelagic interactions like
            
            
              this are commonplace. You really need
            
            
              only one word to sum up Cocos Island
            
            
              and its underwater offerings: wild!
            
            
              
                ISLAND OF THE SHARKS —
              
            
            
              
                AND SO MUCH MORE
              
            
            
              When filmmakers Howard and Michele
            
            
              Hall were tasked with choosing the
            
            
              location for their 1999 IMAX film Island
            
            
              of the Sharks, they looked for a place that
            
            
              was utterly shark-infested. Enter Cocos
            
            
              Island, described by Howard Hall as
            
            
              containing “more sharks per cubic meter
            
            
              of salt water than anywhere in the world.”
            
            
              Despite El Niño-related weather snafus,
            
            
              the Halls managed to capture mind-
            
            
              blowing shark footage. However, the
            
            
              resultant film also contains extraordinary
            
            
              sequences of nonshark subjects.
            
            
              Schooling fish, bottlenose dolphins,
            
            
              marlin, marbled rays, mantis shrimp
            
            
              and eels all play strong supporting roles.
            
            
              Sharks aside, Cocos’ waters contain an
            
            
              abundance of fascinating (and fabulously
            
            
              photogenic) marine life.
            
            
              Cocos Island is a tiny speck in the
            
            
              middle of the Eastern Pacific, located
            
            
              more than 300 miles from mainland
            
            
              Costa Rica. A 30-hour boat ride is
            
            
              required under the most favorable
            
            
              conditions simply to view its shoreline
            
            
              from a distance. Of course, Cocos’
            
            
              isolation is also its biggest strength:
            
            
              Pelagic creatures are regular visitors
            
            
              to these waters. Despite its diminutive
            
            
              size (about 10 square miles), one
            
            
              would be hard-pressed to find a more
            
            
              amazing place. It rises steeply out of
            
            
              the Pacific, consisting of cloud-topped
            
            
              cliffs covered with lush, green vegetation
            
            
              and careening waterfalls. Jacques
            
            
              Cousteau called this place “the most
            
            
              beautiful island in the world.” Cocos
            
            
              is also rumored to be the inspiration
            
            
              for Jurassic Park’s Isla Nublar as well
            
            
              as Robert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure
            
            
              Island. Legend has it that Cocos is
            
            
              the site of a horde of buried pirate
            
            
              treasure, though no booty has ever been
            
            
              discovered here.
            
            
              
                “more sharks per cubic meter of salt
              
            
            
              
                water than anywhere in the world”
              
            
            
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              12/21/11