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Rose Castle provides almost limitless
potential for penetration. The Strathcona
is the only ship that did not suffer any
casualties, as all managed to abandon
ship before the torpedo struck. The Rose
Castle lost 28 sailors.
One of the amazing things to see on
these ships is the quantity of wood that
is still in place — there are even intact
hatches. These vessels have been down
longer than the wrecks in Chuuk but are
in much better condition. In addition to
the cold temperatures, pillaging has been
kept to a minimum out of respect for these
gravesites. It’s worth noting that the RMS
Titanic rests only 350 miles away, so, yes,
it’s cold — but it’s not as bad as we thought
it would be. From around 60 feet and
shallower you can expect temperatures in
the mid- to upper-40s (°F) with the surface
temperature in the mid-50s. On the deeper
wrecks such as the Rose Castle, it can get
down to the mid- to upper-30s deeper
than 100 feet. As long as you’re dressed
properly, 40- to 50-minute dive times
are quite possible. However, these are
summertime temperatures.
Conception Bay is well protected, and
flat water is the norm. Boat rides don’t get
much easier, and there are many shore-
diving possibilities. We took advantage of
a popular beach entrance in the fishing
village of Dildo. This was one of the last
whale-processing plants in Newfoundland,
and an enormous whale graveyard is
located just offshore in 50 to 80 feet of
water. It’s one of the sobering reminders
of why this part of the world was settled
to begin with. Whales here have it
much better now, and snorkeling with
humpbacks at the right time can almost be
guaranteed. The boat rides are short, and
whales are usually spotted immediately;
you just have to find one or two that
want to play. Slowly swimming with these
gigantic marine mammals as they watch
you intently is truly something to cherish.
Our group was unanimous in wanting
to come back as we felt we hadn’t even
scratched the surface of what’s available.
On some of our shore excursions we
could see stunningly clear secluded coves
and reefs just begging to be explored.
The accommodations, dive boat, and
crews of Ocean Quest Adventures were
top notch. Yes, the water is cold, but
the different marine life, authentic ship
wrecks and warm, generous people go a
long way toward balancing the need to
pack a drysuit.
AD
Conditions:
The surface conditions are quite mild in the summer. Even when winds kick up they rarely
make more than a small wind-chop on the bay. It’s very much like the Pacific Northwest. Water tempera-
tures are in the 40s (°F) for most of the summer; below 100 feet it’s usually down into the 30s. The main
diving season is from May through September, with the coldest water temperatures in May and June.
Early in the season icebergs may drift into the bay, and, yes, divers can visit them. One year an iceberg
brought a narwhal with it. Unless you’re a polar bear, a drysuit and proper undergarments are a must.
Currents are rare, and visibility can reach 100 feet (40-75 feet is normal). Air temperatures vary but range
from the 50s to the 80s in the summer.
Getting There:
St John’s is the point of entry for international visitors. Direct flights are few and
mainly originate in the northeastern U.S. A small number of airlines, including United Airlines and Air
Canada, service Newfoundland. The time difference from Eastern Standard is 1.5 hours ahead. Trekkers
from the eastern provinces can drive here via the Trans-Canada Highway and a ferry ride.
ON THE SURFACE:
If you come to Newfoundland in the summer you had better like water and the color
green. There are literally thousands of miles of rugged, forested coastline and dozens of quaint fishing
villages that seem almost frozen in time. But if you come expecting to find folks living in igloos, you’ll
be disappointed. St John’s is a thriving modern city with some 200,000 people. Oil is the new “fishery,”
and the economy is booming. City delights include just about any type of pub or restaurant you can
imagine. And because the city was founded in 1623, there’s no shortage of historical landmarks, muse-
ums or unbelievable scenic overlooks. There are accommodations in the city proper, but most diving
visitors stay in South Conception Bay, about 30 minutes away from St. John’s.
HOW TO DIVE IT
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