68
|
FALL 2013
home to some of the best land-based whale watching in
the world.
Gansbaai is the commercial center of shark diving in South
Africa and a shining example of how living sharks are so
much more valuable than dead ones. Eight operations offer
varying degrees of eco-friendly shark diving, and large boats
are generally the order of the day. Some operations emphasize
education and conservation; I recommend seeking out one
of these companies to get the most out of your encounters
with these magnificent predators. On visits in early spring and
late autumn, cage diving occurs near the preferred anchorage
of Dyer Island, a spectacular breeding and roosting area for
seabirds. Shark Alley is the name given to the channel between
Dyer Island and nearby Geyser Rock, which is home to more
than 50,000 Cape fur seals. Inshore visibility is typically poor
(in the 3- to 15-foot range), but around Dyer Island it can be
as good as 50 feet in the winter and spring.
Photo Tips
For all surface photography in False Bay, which includes great
whites hunting, the enormous schools of dolphins and gannet or
seal action, I use a 70-200mm f/2.8 lens. When shooting breaches
I like to get low and choose a focal point that’s below the center
of the frame. This elevates the shark farther out of the water
and creates less negative space below the action. For natural
predation, start by shooting slightly wide, as this provides more
room for error and allows you to get a feel for the action before
you go tighter. There are also many opportunities to shoot wide-
angle, so a 16-35mm or similar lens is also a good idea.
For underwater shooting from the cage, divers should be
aware that the ports of the cages used throughout South Africa
are narrow. Strobes, unless compact or on short arms, can
be cumbersome. The cage also floats right on the surface, so
ambient light will be in full supply. For the pelagic and sevengill
sharks I recommend camera housings that allow for wide-angle
lenses (8-20mm). The subjects often come very close to divers,
and the kelp forests offer a beautiful backdrop.
Sardine Run
The “greatest shoal on earth” is what sardine-run pioneer
Peter Lamberti termed the annual movement of billions
of sardines along the South African south and east coasts.
Starting in April off Port Elizabeth, huge shoals of sardines
move close to the coast as sea temperatures cool to around
67°F — the preferred swimming conditions for these
planktivorous bait fish. With the huge shoals comes an
equally impressive suite of predators. Starting with the aerial
assault, amazingly well-adapted Cape gannets plunge-feed
into the fish using air pockets in their wings to absorb the
tremendous shock as they strike the water. The force with
which they hit the water quickly attracts the attention of
massive schools of dolphin, which can easily number in
excess of 1,000 individuals. As the dolphins begin feeding on
the fish, the sharks (duskys, bronze whalers and blacktips)
arrive to join in the feeding frenzy. The final and most
impressive sardine assassins are the 50-foot-long Bryde’s
whales, which soon appear and plow open-mouthed through
the baitballs like giant ice cream scoops.
When the action is hot, it’s on fire, but you do need to allow
yourself time to get lucky; a stay of at least five to seven days
provides a realistic chance of seeing some good action. The
baitballs are undoubtedly the pinnacle of the show, but there
is also a migration of humpback whales along the coast that
coincides with the run. Most days provide a chance to shoot
breaching humpbacks.
It can get dangerous underwater when the frenzy is in full
swing, so pay close attention to divemasters. It is definitely
worth doing your homework to make sure the company you
choose has experience with high-action baitball situations.
Baitballs are dynamic and, as such, shift like willow trees
blowing in the wind. While you want to be close to the
action, you do not want to get caught up in the ball. Not
only can that dissipate the action, but you could literally do a
“Jonah and the whale” as Bryde’s whales tend to race through
baitballs, mouths agape. If you are in their path the results
could be unpleasant, to say the least.
Generally the key to a great day on the run is visibility
of at least 15 feet and focused gannet action. When the
gannets are diving with a purpose it is likely that the other
players will turn up, and good visibility means your chances
of seeing something special are high. You will probably be
diving from 25-foot rigid inflatable boats (RIBs), and it’s
wise to have your gear well organized. When you chance
upon action, the sooner you can get in the water the better.
Typically the activity will occur in 5 to 25 feet of water, and
the water temperature will be in the high 60s.
When photographing sharks, let them come to you instead
of chasing them. Position yourself next to the action, and for
a few minutes simply watch what’s going on. By doing this
you will begin to see patterns in how the dolphins sweep
into the shoals in well-orchestrated attacks, and you’ll learn
where the sharks spend most of their time in the ball. Finally,
you’ll pick up on how the light allows different shooting
opportunities. By spending just a little time observing you’ll
be better at predicting where the action will be next, and
that will definitely improve your results. It is also a good idea
to have a vigilant dive buddy — when the action heats up the
sharks can become very “friendly,” and a gentle push away
may be required.
The peak time for sardine-run activity is May through
July. Port Elizabeth, East London, Coffee Bay and Port St.
Johns (in that order) are the towns that people who follow
the run use as bases to access the shoals as they move up the
coast. Be sure to check on travel logistics, cancellation fees
for bad-weather days and available down-time options when
booking one of these trips.
