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I had never known a trip to

garner such demand. Every

year we organize a couple of

photo tours to distant and

exotic destinations in the

tropical diving universe. This

year we arranged our first trip

to Cuba — to the

Jardines de la

Reina

(Gardens of the Queen)

— and it sold out in only two

hours. I’ve heard of similar

success from others in the dive

travel business, too. There was

tremendous pent-up demand

for Cuba, it seemed, among

North American divers. This

was curious to me, because

I’d dived Cuba before and was

underwhelmed.

UNDERWHELMED?

“Underwhelming” is not a

word you typically see used

to describe diving in Cuba,

but context is important to

understand my experiential

baseline. In the mid-1980s a popular strobe manufacturer

of the day, Subsea, invited me and several other

professional underwater photographers to teach a

seminar to their best dive shop retailers, destination

Cuba. We traveled to the Isle of Youth and enjoyed some

relatively good diving on its walls and shipwrecks. The

scenery was nice, especially the huge sponges against

blue water backgrounds, but I was struck by how few

fish I was seeing. This makes sense when you consider

that the Isle of Youth is the seventh-largest island in the

West Indies and has a population of 86,000. That many

people can consume a lot of fish, so it’s no surprise the

fishing pressure was discernible. This was 30 years ago,

and Cuba’s initiative to develop marine protected areas

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FALL 2016

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T E X T A ND P HO T O S

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