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43

the national food of the Bahamas and is considered a

must-try for visitors. It is typically served either raw in

a salad with citrus juices, fruits and veggies or fried as

fritters or “cracked conch.”

Usually the shells are discarded onto massive piles

called middens, but they may also be used to make

jewelry, Christmas ornaments and other trinkets. The

shells are used extensively — they decorate walkways,

they’re built into cement walls, they appear as table

ornaments and much more.

I was particularly enamored of a massive brass

sculpture of a conch shell I saw on a billionaire’s

private property. The individual’s economic status

seems not to matter; the conch shell is a symbol of

the Bahamas and its clear water, cool breezes and

relaxed atmosphere.

As a dive instructor and guide, I am careful to not

touch the animals, but conch are one of the few I will

pick up, turn over and give guests a peek at. I encourage

them to feel the smooth underside of the shell before

I place it back in its environment. Conch are beautiful

to look at, touch, taste and even hear (there are many

popular Bahamian songs written about conch, such as

“Conch Ain’t Got No Bone”). I haven’t met anyone,

however, who enjoys the raw smell of conch.

CONCH IN TROUBLE

Two major queen conch fisheries (Florida and

Bermuda) collapsed in the 1970s and despite complete

moratoriums have still not recovered. “If the conch

fishery in the Bahamas is lost, it’s lost forever,” said

Agnessa Lundy, marine science officer at the Bahamas

National Trust. In 1992 conch were listed in Appendix II

of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered

Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) because nearly

all Caribbean nations’ conch were severely overfished in

the 1980s. Today only a few countries have significant

enough populations to allow for commercial export.

Community Conch, a nonprofit conservation

organization, along with the Shedd Aquarium in